Archive for August, 2010

Film Review: Living Hell (aka Iki-jigoku)

I’ve seen a lot of Japanese horror films and this one is one in which I wish I hadn’t. I like a good low budget oddity as much as the next person but this film from writer/director Shugo Fujii is a complete mess of a film.

It has low production values and a script that’s so horrible bad that there is wonder as to why (or even how) it ever made it to our shores. The film boasts as being the Japanese Texas Chainsaw Massacre but has now of the grain or roughness of that film nor the tense of sheer terror that makes it a classic (and for the record I’m no fan of that film either yet I do recognize its contributions to the genre).

The story (if you’re even interested) concerns a seemingly normal family whose suddenly visited upon by two relatives who are more sadistic then when first viewed. These relatives torture and disfigure their fellow family member through most of the second half of the film which is neither interesting nor remotely entertaining. Unlike Chainsaw where the murders were interestingly displayed in a brutal fashion here everything is meant to be shocking and gory yet comes off as laughable and pedestrian. The poor production values don’t help as the film looks like it was shot on video and an cinematographer was non-existent.

These shoddy representation of the film just makes the whole experience of watching it tedious. I almost stopped the film but I hate doing this as I like to have watched the entire film prior to reviewing it, no mater how excruciating the experience.

The Best Chain Saw Sharpener Tools

Getting chores done around your yard or summer cabin can be much easier with the help of a chain saw. But, that's only true if you keep the chainsaw sharp. A dull chain saw not only slows down the work, but can be a very dangerous tool.


There are a number of different chain saw sharpeners on the market that will automatically sharpen the chain. Professional quality bench sharpeners, enthusiast level chain sharpeners, and handyman sharpeners. Each of these has their advantages and disadvantages, including price, portability, ease of use, and accuracy.


Professional and enthusiast grinders sharpen the chain when it is off the saw. Guides hold the chain in perfect position while adjustments to edge angle and tilt angle are precisely set up. These systems are very fast and accurate, but of course you need to take your saw, or at least the chain, into your local saw sharpening shop.


The simplest, and in many cases the most practical sharpening tool is a simple hand held round file. You can also add a file guide and depth gauge guide to assist you. Consistency is the key to a sharp chain. The same number of strokes on every tooth, and the exact same direction of every stroke will lead to an extremely sharp chain saw.


There are several types of hand file guides. The simplest type attaches to the round file and allows you to watch the markings on the guide so that you maintain a consistent angle every time you stroke the file. Another type of file guide clamps to the bar and controls the movement of the round file over the teeth of the chain.


The round file needs to match the size of your chain. Most common chain saws should be sharpened with either 7/32 inch or 5/16 inch files. Most round files will last forever if you take care of them properly. Wrap them up before dropping them into your toolbox, and don't use them for picking stones out of the logs.


You can pick up a good depth gauge at most hardware stores. This gauge should be set on top of the chain and used to control how much you need to remove from the guides after each sharpening. After several sharpenings the teeth on your chain will be lower than the guides. You need to take the guide height down to match the height of the teeth on your chain saw.

Tim Bridger runs the Chain Saw Sharpener Guide, where you can get honest, practical advice about how to sharpen your chainsaw, and learn all about a chain saw sharpener.

Chain saws are wonderful tools when they are cutting properly. Most people know that when a chain saw gets dull it does not cut very easily, and in fact can become quite dangerous. But, there are a number of other problems that can cause your chain saw to cut poorly. Most of these issues can be traced back to improper sharpening procedures or poor maintenance.


When you're cutting with your chain saw, if it cuts crooked or at an angle this is generally an indication that the teeth have been improperly filed. Either they were filed at the wrong angle, or every tooth was not filed the same amount and with the same pressure. If filing is not the cause of a chainsaw pulling to one side or the other, then it could be the bar or the sprocket at the far end of the bar are in poor condition and need maintenance or straightening.


If you have a newly sharpened chain saw and it dulls quickly, usually this is caused by thin cutting edges resulting from too much file pressure or low angle when sharpening your chain saw. Your chainsaw will need to be refiled using less pressure, as well as lowering the angle of attack and checking the height of the depth gauges.


If the chain grabs and cuts rough the saw sharpener probably induced a forward hook on the teeth as a result of too much pressure from the top of the file. A good indication that the depth gauges are set incorrectly is when the chain digs too far into the wood. You will need to lower the height of the depth gauges in most cases. If you detect overheating of the chain you may not have enough bar oil, or the saw sharpener created a backslope on the teeth during the last sharpening.


Drive link problems on the chain can result in severe problems like the chain jumping off the bar. Incorrect chain tension can cause this, and you may have to replace bent drive links on your chain. Also, excessive chain chatter can be caused by improper sprocket fit, and result in front or back peened drive links.


Whenever you identify these kinds of cutting problems with your chain saw you should immediately remove the bar and chain from the saw and inspect carefully. There are usually only a couple of nuts to remove the chain and separate the bar from the saw. This will allow you to inspect the parts for dangerous defects and keep your saw in good condition.

T Bridger runs the Chain Saw Sharpener Guide, where you can get honest, practical advice about how to sharpen your chainsaw chain, and learn all about a chain saw sharpener.

How To Sharpen Your Chain Saw

To keep a chain saw sharp, you must sharpen it often. This is not as difficult as it sounds - all you need are a few simple tools and some practice. There are really only 2 steps to sharpening your chain saw. First, you need to file or grind the teeth on the chain to a razor sharp edge, and second you need to adjust the height of the depth guides that regulate the amount of wood taken by each cut.


You can imagine the teeth on the chain as small wood chisels, each one taking a small sliver of wood from the cut, every second tooth cutting from the opposite side. If each tooth takes a consistent amount of wood, at the same angle, and with same amount of effort or force from the saw, then we will get a nice clean cut with a minimum of struggle. When the chain saw doesn't pull to either side and the saw cuts through the wood like butter you know you have a well sharpened chain saw.


When you're learning how to sharpen your chainsaw it's a good idea to tighten the chain so there is very little slack. This will keep the teeth straight and make it easier to maintain a consistent angle when stroking with the round file. You should still be able to move the chain around the bar in a snug fashion. Just remember to loosen the chain before using it again.


Pay attention to the cross angle of the teeth, as well as the upward tilt angle of the sharpened edge. Line up your round file so that it follows the existing angles on the teeth. Gently stroke the file towards the tooth's point (away from the saw body). Watch the guide carefully so you can keep a consistent angle. Always count the number of strokes on each tooth - usually 5 or 6 strokes is enough. Then move on to the next tooth on the chain and stroke 5 or 6 times at the very same angle.


Repeat this pattern for all of the teeth that point in the same direction (every second tooth). Then flip the file guide around and repeat the process for every other alternating tooth pointing to the other side of the saw. Remember, it's very important that every tooth is sharpened the same amount or the saw will pull to one side when you try to cut.


After several sharpenings you will have worn the teeth down slightly. The depth gauges must be filed down so they are no higher than the tops of the teeth on the chain saw. Many people don't know about this step, but if you don't maintain the correct height of the depth guides your chain saw will not cut properly.


All you do is set the depth guide on the chain straddling the teeth and a small notch on the guide will allow you to remove the correct amount from each gauge. Filing the depth gauges is easier than sharpening the teeth because you're only trying to set the height of the depth gauges, not actually sharpen them.

T Bridger runs the Chain Saw Sharpener Guide, where you can get honest, practical advice about how to sharpen your chainsaw chain, and learn all about a chain saw sharpener.

If you’ve come across the Poulan name in the world of power tools, then you’re probably well aware of this outdoor power equipment company’s big selection of quality machines.

Poulan gas trimmers are especially well known for their power and dependability. Like this Poulan P2500 Gas Trimmer, with a 25cc engine, 17 inch cutting path and ergonomic design, it’s a well-reviewed favorite among users.

Like all power tools, Poulan weed eaters have certain parts that are designed to wear down, and because the their tools are designed for years of life, that means some minor repairs. A common parts replacement for line trimmers is the clutch. Here’s an article that explains how to remove a line trimmer clutch: How to Remove a Trimmer Clutch.

eReplacementParts.com has an inventory full of OEM Poulan parts, including trimmer parts. Poulan parts are also available on their website for their lines of blowers, electric chainsaws, gas chainsaws, lawn mowers, lawn tractors, pole pruners, and tillers.

Does the Poulan name sound familiar? Well, one reason might be on account of their sponsoring the NCAA college Independence Bowl, Poulan being one of the first sponsor names ever to be used in the name of the bowl. Poulan and Weed Eater are both part of the Husqvarna AB manufacturing group, so in no time, the Independence Bowl was being called the Poulan Weed Eater Bowl. Just a strange little factoid.

Like Poulan, Weed Eater products also have a long history of performance and deserve proper care. Take at look at eReplacementParts.com’s selection of OEM Weed Eater parts and breakdown diagrams while you’re there.

Justin Larsen is a professional write in the Power Tools and Tool Repair industry for eReplacementParts.com

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